Category Archives: Food

In Praise of Porcini: Liguria’s Tasty Autumn Treat
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In Praise of Porcini: Liguria’s Tasty Autumn Treat

Even after a hot and stormy summer, in the last few days of October, people in villages across Liguria will be praying for the sunshine to last. For with the first frosts in the mountains and woodlands of the region comes the end of a period of gastronomic gold: the porcini season. Years ago, in […]

Vico Casana and the scent of tripe
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Vico Casana and the scent of tripe

It’s not a trip for everyone, that which I made today, in the alleyways of Genoa. Vegetarians and the diet obsessed would be horrified, but for those who want authentic tastes, this means a date with ‘rustic’ cooking with a truly evocative name: tripe. Cheap and tasty like never before, this old Ligurian dish is […]

In the Caruggi of Genoa – Just follow your nose
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In the Caruggi of Genoa – Just follow your nose

One of my favourite walks in any city, anywhere in the world, starts at the Brignole railway Station end of the Genoa’s Via XX Settembre. Walking uphill towards the Piazza de Ferrari, the street seems to come directly from a film by Fellini: High, wide arcades display windows full of fashion and food, all illuminated […]

Searching for the Stamp
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Searching for the Stamp

Croxetti – A classic Ligurian dish, yet only two men in the region still make the traditional pasta stamps by hand. A visit to Pietro Picetti’s workshop in Varese Ligure. This story begins, like so many in Liguria, in a restaurant. Years ago I was taken to the Osteria di Vico Palla in the old […]

Rossese: the wine of the rocks
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Rossese: the wine of the rocks

Rossese? It doesn’t exist. Or it should be named differently: Roccese. Like a historical joke, an oenological tongue-twister, the wine of Dolceacqua and above all its surroundings (the town which produces the most and where you find the most famous businesses is Soldano) changed its name. It became something more ‘wine-like’, exactly like the coloured […]

A miniature train, salami and imagination
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A miniature train, salami and imagination

Genuineness is all down to natural elements (a combination of 60 percent pork and 40 percent beef). But the real secret is in the fire: that of burning wood during the drying phase in order to maintain a slight taste of smoke. We’re in Sant’Olcese, a municipality in the province of Genoa, which can be […]

Libereso Guglielmi: a gardener in the kitchen
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Libereso Guglielmi: a gardener in the kitchen

He has hands marked by working the land and a face darkened by the sun. Libereso Guglielmi, born in Bordighera in 1925, lived so many lives in one that one book is not enough to re-tell everything. Considered one of the biggest botanical experts in the world, a student of Mario Calvino, father of Italo, […]

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